Specification for signal models

• I will make signals to any scale using etched brass parts whenever these are available. Should parts need to be made from scratch I will warn clients as the price will need to reflect the work involved.

• Wooden posts and dolls will usually be made from hardwood, suitably tapered. Metal parts will be fitted with pins or tubes through the posts, secured with epoxy resin.

• Models made entirely of metal will be soldered throughout.

• Three options are possible for fixing signals in place....

1. A flat mounting plate which screws or glues to the baseboard top. A tubular post will project slightly below the plate, being soldered into a hole in it. This makes the joint stronger and allows the soldered joint to be hidden. You will need to make a suitable sized countersunk hole to accommodate this when fixing the signal.
   
   

2. A square telescopic plug and socket made from brass tube which is screwed to the baseboard from underneath. You can specify the length of the tube to suit the thickness of your baseboard. The plug and socket shown below was made deep enough to pass through a baseboard timber, which just happened to be vertically below where the signal was to stand.
   

   
   Signals with tubular posts and only one semaphore arm can be fitted with a particularly neat plug-in coupling as shown below. On the left is a picture taken early in the construction of a signal and on the right is the finished signal, ready to plug in to its socket on a layout.
   

   	Left - this shows the output crank from a mechanism. The slot in the bracket receives the operating wire from the signal. The taper makes it easy to guide the wire home when plugging in the model. A collar soldered to the wire locates against the top surface of the bracket.

   
   

3. A plug-in coupling that includes drive pins in both plug and socket to transmit the drive. This can be supplied as part of a full drive system. It is useful if you want to be able to fit and remove the model on occasion or if you want the model to be easy to install (drives can be built and adjusted before delivery). The picture below shows a tapered wooden post ready to be fixed into a plug-in coupling. Click here to see an eight arm drive coupling.
   
   

• Signals can be specified with or without drives. Models without drives can have their operating wires led through holes in the base or terminated with a crank or lever at the bottom of the post.

• I will build drives using any of the available motors or solenoids. However I recommend memory wire as a totally silent, gentle action drive. This is particularly effective with a bounce mechanism, otherwise its action can look too slow.

• I recommend that if you want me to supply a complete drive unit you also specify a plug-in coupling. I can then build and adjust the model and its drive so that its installation is easy for you. Plug-in couplings can be tailored to the thickness of your baseboard and can be specified for any signal.

• Working lights can be specified and can be either grain of wheat bulbs or LEDs.

• Signals will usually be delivered painted and fitted with spectacle glazing. Weathering can be added if required.

• Normally I will quote a price at the time of order. I will require a non-returnable deposit before starting to build. For more complex or unusual models I may not be able to quote a fixed price but will give an estimate.

• When you order your model I will give you an estimate for the delivery time. Whilst I will do my utmost to finish your model within this time I will warn you if the delivery will be delayed (due, for instance, to difficulties obtaining parts).

• You can supply a drawing or sketch of your requirements, or a photograph or photocopy from a book or magazine. I have copies of most of the published books on signalling, so I can build to information from these.

© Charlie Harrison 2005