The “Beamish” on a 1953 DOT

(from Sept 2005 Independent)

For years I have sat on our cottage steps watching the old vehicles taking part in "The Beamish" tackling the hair‑pin bends of Silver I‑fill en route for West Stones Dale and Tan Hill (the highest pub in Britain at 1700 feet plus) and then, well, frankly, I actually didn't know where. And for years I have resolved to take part. Finally, this year, after many false starts, I managed to get my 1953 Dot and me into semblance of order, and took the plunge.

What is "The Beamish?" Well, it is officially known as the "Beamish Safety and Reliability Run" and is a run for cars, motor cycles and light commercials dating from before the early 1950s. It starts and finishes in Chester‑ le ‑Street just South of Newcastle ‑upon ‑Tyne and involves 155 miles of winding roads, innumerable sharp ascents and descents, sweeping moorland highways, forestry roads, fords and many a charming grey stone village. It winds through the wonderful scenery of Durham, Weardale, Teesdale, Arkengarthdale, Swaledale and Wensleydale ‑ and those wonderful evocative names should be enough to make anyone want to enter!

My cousin Malcolm and I the Dot on a rack, made an early start from our base in Swaledale. foolishly, had contrived to throw myself off the Dot on Silver Hill the previous day whilst testing the effect of a new main jet. Nothing serious, but it is a few years since I fell off a bike, and it was a salutary reminder of how hard tarmac can be. The result was a very stiff knee and a painfully ricked back which did not bode well for a long hard ride. The Dot shrugged off this minor tumble with hardly a scratch!

In spite of retracing our steps on the A66 to rescue a distressed lamb caught by its horns in a wire fence, we arrived in Chester‑le‑Street in good time and I was allowed to set off with the early starters which included a 1930s "cammy" Velocette and a 1920s AJS.

This is my first organised run, ever, and for some reason I felt pretty nervous, and even more so when the Dot coughed and spluttered to a halt about 5 miles into the run. Such ignominy! But the dear old, faithful bike started again, second kick, and we were off in pursuit.

A bit about my Dot. It is a 1953, swing arm model, first supplied in scrambles trim, with Metal Profile telescopic front forks. At some time it assumed the role of trials iron, BSA front forks were fitted and it was clearly used pretty hard. It came in to my life about 15 years ago, and whereas other bikes have come and gone the Dot has remained. The engine, ubiquitous Villiers 7E with 3 speed gearbox, was professionally rebuilt about 7 years ago, and now, with road gearing, I just use it for pottering about the local lanes.

So, on with the show. A pleasant run in sultry weather via a sharp little hill at Iveston and on to the Woolsingham check point, where some very pleasant marshals asked some very unpleasant questions. This is one of the features of the run ‑ it is gently competitive and one scores points answering questions at each check point. You lose marks by failing on one of the observed hill sections.

From Woolsingharn a steep ascent (Wears Bank) and on to the forest at Hamsterley which includes a good section of unmade gravel track, and, inevitably, a steep climb proceeded by a very sharp hair‑pin bend.

From here we progress over almost deserted roads to Barnard Castle, a busy market town, where the check point is in front of the magnificent French Chateaux style Bowes Museum. Now the serious work begins. Over the River Tees and the busy A66 to the long climb through Stang forest. The final steep pitch culminates in a series of tricky hair‑pins where I have to decide how long to hang on to 2nd gear before taking that great leap down into "super bottom gear." I get it wrong, miss a gear, but managed to regain composure without actually stopping.

I relax on the descent into the wonderfully named "Arkengarthdale" which still bears the scars of its lead mining past. I even have time to stop and watch a large owl sweeping across the bleak moor pursued by two plovers (no not Franny Bs !).

From the Charles Bathhurst Hotel (always known as the CB) there is another sharp ascent through old lead workings ‑ Scott Trial country this ‑ where I am rather balked by a spectators “Auntie” Rover 90. I finally get by and splash through a beck before the almost vertical plunge into Low Row, Swaledale.

Here the Dot stops and refuses to continue. Out with the old plug spanner, just as by chance my mate Malcolm arrives on the scene in my car. Quick change of plug and we are on our way, and for the first time the Dot feels on top form.

Now these are roads that I know well so we make short work of the route through Gunnerside and Muker to the famous Buttertubs Pass into Wensleydale, and the lunch time stop in Bainbridge where I arrive at 11:30. Not being allowed to depart until 1:00 I spend a very pleasant time wandering around the lovely spacious village green, admiring the cars and bikes that are arriving and chatting to fellow competitors and the many spectators pick‑nicking on the grass. Here I meet up once more with the only other 2 stroke in the field. A BSA Bantam 125 ridden by Cyril, aged 87, and doesn't he make it go!

One O'clock comes and there is quite a press to leave the village green. I get mixed up with some of the fast lads, but on the very steep climb out of Askrigg they sneak past a black Rover saloon, and I, thinking of yesterday's tumble, back off "Riding to finish" I tell myself, and enjoy a sedate run up Swaledale to Keld, where I pop in home to refuel before tackling the hair‑pins of Silver Hill and on up Westonesdale to Tan Hill.

At Tan Hill there is quite a crowd and a short queue waiting to go through the checkpoint. I keep the old Villiers pop‑poppin, as it's getting a little hot and bothered and I don't trust it to start again if it stalls. Off we go eventually over sweeping moorland bends to Brough. I catch my old friend the black Rover and he graciously lets me through.

I love the B6276 from Brough; empty road, wide open moorland, sweeping bends, the Dot is really buzzing! I've no speedo but I reckon that I'm up to a heady 55‑60. And here we are back in Teesdale and a checkpoint in the pretty village of Romaldkirk. Spectators pick‑nicking on the green, teas in church hall. England on a summer's day. Malcolm appears with cooling water ‑ thanks mate!

But stern stuff awaits as we pull out of Teesdale from Eggleston towards Stanhope. Again I get the feeling that has most surprised me all day ‑where is everybody?" These great swathes of roads crossing and re‑crossing the Northern fells, and I feel alone. A speck on the landscape ‑ no, a Dot on the landscape!

Back to earth with a bump at Bollihope Quarry check point. A big gallery of spectators sees the Dot fail to restart after the compulsory stop. A plug change doesn't do the trick, and I try another from my collection ‑still no joy. Nothing for it but to push up the hill, turn round and bump start. The Dot eventually fires, a quick “U” turn and we're off again to a smattering of applause.

In Stanhope is a very broad ford where many spectators gather. I'm given the option of taking a detour over a bridge, but, hey, in for a penny in for a pound, and we go for it. No problem!

Another steep climb out of Stanhope (surprise, surprise!) to the Moorcock at Waskerley. By now both Dot and rider are feeling the effects of the warm weather. The Dot is becoming an increasingly reluctant starter and bump starting is becoming the order of the day. My stops to check the route have to be planned at the top of hills, of which, happily, there are many.

It rains heavily for just long enough for me to think that it is worth putting on my waterproofs. Then it stops but I can't be bothered to take them off and do a fair imitation of a "boil in the bag" ready meal particularly as, once again, the Dot won't start and I have to push back across the busy A68 to find an obliging hill.

And so on through Lanchester, Burnhope and back to Chester‑le‑Street, where I miss a turning and head off in the wrong direction. Realising my mistake I double back and find my way back to The Riverside Park and the finish. Done it!

A big thank you to my mate Malcolm and to the organisers and their helpers. It really was great fun.

If you fancy a go (and the suggestion is that newer vehicles may be eligible next year) then contact the most helpful Geo Jolley (0191 5360929).

P.S. The next morning The Dot started first kick, but totally expired in Hawes later in the week and is now in the care of Mike Tonge

Stephen Leat

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