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Not only is it nearly impossible to remove any of the
batteries with this install, but the unsheathed and unfused positive cables
are a hazard if they chafe and short against the hull or a negative post.
All known marine regulations recommend the battery isolator to be fitted
in the positive terminal..why is the negative chosen by so many builders?..cheap,
cheaper, cheapest!, and it can be argued that the customer only has to
turn off one switch to isolate the whole boat, so why bother?
The problem is that the boat circuits are still 'live' even when isolated,
and electricity will try and find it's path back to ground by whatever
means possible. In damp marine conditions this could mean via your steel
hull or skin fittings via bonding conductors, or via 'direct' (always
on) circuits such as bilge pumps. Compared to the cost of replating/repair
work after advanced galvanic attack to your hull, the cost of a few isolator
switches is a bargain.
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